How Many Driveway Kerb Ramp Sections Do I Need?
If you're standing in the driveway with a tape measure, here's the short answer: divide the width you need to cover by 1.2m, then round up to the next whole section.
That's the starting point for answering the question “How many driveway ramp sections do I need?”
Keep in mind it won't always be the final number because kerbs curve, drains get in the way, and not every driveway is a clean straight run. But it gets you close before you commit to an order, and for most driveways, it's the number you'll end up with.
This guide walks through the calculation, how to measure properly, and the handful of situations where the simple formula needs adjusting before you order, including bends, obstructions, and mixed vehicles.
How Many Driveway Ramp Sections Do I Need? The Quick Calculation
Coverage width ÷ section length = number of straight sections, rounded up.
Rubbr's 1.2m rolled-edge kerb ramp section and the 1.2m premium centre module are both sold in 1.2m lengths, so this figure applies specifically to those two products. If you're pricing up a different section length, swap that number into the formula instead. The maths doesn't change, only what you're dividing by.
Round up, always: A 2.9m opening needs three sections, not two and a partial one. You can't buy a fraction of a section, and an offcut won't sit flush against a full-length piece. This gives you the section count for a straight run, but it doesn't account for end modules, bends or gaps around obstructions, which we cover further down.
Full-Width or Tyre-Track Coverage
Before you calculate anything, decide what you're covering. There are two ways to set up a driveway kerb ramp, and each leads to a different section count.
A full-width driveway ramp spans the entire opening kerb to kerb and is the tidier option. It's forgiving if a car doesn't line up perfectly, and it copes better with multiple vehicles or visitors who don't know exactly where the tyre paths are.
A tyre-track driveway ramp covers only where the wheels cross the kerb, leaving a gap in the middle. It uses fewer sections and costs less, but it only works if the vehicle enters the same way every time: one car, one predictable approach, same spot every day.
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Full-width coverage |
Tyre-track coverage |
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Best for |
Multiple vehicles, angled entries, visitors, shared driveways |
One vehicle, consistent straight-in approach |
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Section count |
Higher (covers the whole opening) |
Lower (covers only the wheel paths) |
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Forgiveness on alignment |
High |
Low (miss the track and you're back to scraping) |
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Finished look |
Neater, more deliberate |
Functional, with a visible gap between tracks |
Full-Width Coverage
- Best for – Multiple vehicles, angled entries, visitors, shared driveways
- Section count – Higher (covers the whole opening)
- Forgiveness on alignment – High
- Finished look – Neater, more deliberate
Tyre-Track Coverage
- Best for – One vehicle, consistent straight-in approach
- Section count – Lower (covers only the wheel paths)
- Forgiveness on alignment – Low (miss the track and you're back to scraping)
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Finished look – Functional, with a visible gap between tracks
Unsure which one applies to your situation? Picture the last few times you've pulled in.
If you've ever clipped the kerb because you came in slightly off-angle, tyre-track coverage will catch you out eventually; full-width coverage won't.
Measure the Driveway for Your Kerb Ramp
Measure along the kerb, at the point where the ramp will actually sit, not the widest part of the driveway further back on the property. Plenty of driveways flare out past the kerb, so the street-level opening is often narrower than the concrete pad behind it. Order the wide figure, and you'll end up with sections overhanging the kerb at both ends, sitting on dirt or garden bed instead of the gutter line.
Measure the narrowest usable point of the entry, in metres to one decimal place, and use that as your driveway ramp width for the calculation. If the kerb has any curve to it, measure ground level along the base of the kerb rather than across the top because it's the line the ramp will actually follow. It's easier to have a section slightly longer than the opening than to come up short.
How Each Vehicle Approaches the Kerb
Measuring the kerb tells you how wide the opening is. However, it doesn't tell you where the tyres actually land, and that's the detail that decides whether tyre-track coverage will work for your household.
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A single, consistent vehicle entering the same way each time has a narrow, predictable tyre path: tyre-track coverage is worth considering here.
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Angled entries, where the car turns in from the street rather than approaching square-on, spread the tyre path wider and can shift it toward one side of the opening.
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Visitor vehicles rarely line up as precisely as the person who parks there every day, pushing toward full-width coverage if visitors use the driveway regularly.
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The lowest-clearance vehicle in the household sets the standard. If one car scrapes and another doesn't, plan the ramp around the one that scrapes.
If more than one of these applies, like a low car with visitors dropping by, full-width coverage generally earns its keep.
Driveway Kerb Ramp Measurement Examples
These are straight-run examples: a flat, unobstructed kerb, full-width coverage, 1.2m sections.
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2.4m opening: 2.4 ÷ 1.2 = 2. Two sections cover this exactly, edge to edge.
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3.0m opening: 3.0 ÷ 1.2 = 2.5. Round up to 3. You'll have roughly 0.6m of extra coverage across the run. It’s not wasted, just beyond the strict minimum, which is normal when a driveway width doesn't divide evenly by the section length.
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3.6m opening: 3.6 ÷ 1.2 = 3, exactly.
Notice 3.0m and 3.6m both land on three sections, even though one driveway is 600mm wider. The count only steps up once you cross the next full multiple of 1.2m. A 3.7m driveway needs a fourth section, because the calculation always rounds up rather than leaving a gap.
Centre Modules vs End Modules
If you're building a full-width setup with the modular kerb ramp range, centre and end modules aren't interchangeable, and the formula above only calculates centre coverage.
Centre modules form the main driving run. The 1.2m premium centre module is what the section-count formula is calculating. If your driveway needs three sections of coverage, that's three centre modules.
End modules finish the outer edges rather than adding driving width. The premium end module closes off the side of the installation so there isn't a raw edge exposed at each end. Tyre-track coverage generally doesn't need one, since there's no continuous edge to finish. Full-width coverage usually benefits from one, particularly where people walk near the ramp or bins, or where bikes or prams cross the area regularly.
The full calculation for a full-width premium setup looks like this: work out your centre module count using the section formula, then decide separately whether the layout calls for one or two end modules to close off the sides. Count end modules on top of your centre-module total; don't fold them into it.
Allowing for Bends and Awkward Edges
Corner blocks, curved driveways and cul-de-sac entries rarely follow a straight kerb line, and a straight 1.2m section can't bend to match them. Where the curb changes direction, you're usually left with a gap or an overhanging edge unless something angled fills that space.
The kerb ramp bend module is designed for exactly this: a shorter angled section that sits at the side of a run where the kerb curves or the driveway edge isn't square to the road.
It isn't a default addition, though.
Whether one suits your driveway depends on the actual angle of your kerb and how the adjoining straight sections will sit against it.
So it's worth checking compatibility with your specific layout before adding one to the order, particularly on tighter corner or cul-de-sac curves. If you're unsure, send through photos and measurements and ask before ordering.
Check Drainage and Obstructions
Before you lock in a section count, walk the kerb line and note anything that might stop a section from sitting flat or force a gap in the run:
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Drain openings and grates along the gutter, which a solid section shouldn't sit directly over
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Stormwater paths and gutter flow direction, so water can still move once the ramp is in
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Driveway posts, letterboxes or bollards planted close to the kerb
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Uneven or sloped sections of gutter, where a rubber leveller or a compacted base underneath may help a section sit flat rather than rock under load
Any of these can shorten your effective coverage width or split a single run into two shorter ones either side of an obstruction.
If a drain sits roughly in the middle of what would otherwise be a single clean run, for example, you may end up ordering two shorter runs either side of it rather than one continuous length.
This changes your section count from the straight-line calculation. Map these out before ordering, not after the first section arrives and doesn't fit.
Confirm Your Layout Before Ordering
If your driveway is a straightforward straight run with no bends, no drains in the way and one predictable vehicle, the quick calculation above is usually all you need.
If any of the following apply, confirm the layout before ordering rather than after:
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The kerb curves, bends, or meets a corner or cul-de-sac.
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There's a drain, post or other obstruction along the kerb line.
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Multiple vehicles with different clearances use the driveway.
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The entry is angled rather than square to the road.
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Your measurement doesn't divide neatly by 1.2m, and you're not sure how the extra length should be distributed.
In any of these cases, send Rubbr a straight-on photo of the driveway entry, a side profile showing the kerb shape, your measurements, and the vehicle type (or types) using the driveway. It takes a couple of minutes, and it's the difference between ordering once and ordering twice.
Frequently Asked Questions
Is two tyre-track sections enough, or do I need more?
For a single vehicle with a consistent, straight-in approach, two sections positioned under the tyre paths can be enough. If more than one vehicle uses the driveway, or entries are angled or inconsistent, tyre-track coverage becomes less reliable and full-width coverage is usually the safer call.
Does the ramp need to cover the entire driveway width?
No. Full-width coverage is one option, not a requirement. Tyre-track coverage is a valid and less expensive setup for a single predictable vehicle. The right choice comes down to how many vehicles use the driveway and how consistently they enter.
Can sections be joined together?
Yes. The 1.2m rolled-edge kerb ramp and the premium centre modules connect using joining bolts and pre-drilled holes underneath each section, so multiple pieces can be linked into one continuous run.
Are end modules required?
Only for full-width setups where you want a finished edge at the sides of the installation. Tyre-track coverage generally doesn't call for them, since there's no continuous run edge to close off.
What if my driveway width doesn't divide evenly by 1.2m?
Round up to the next whole section. A 3.0m opening needs three sections, not two and a partial one. Sections aren't sold as fractions; a full section gives you more coverage than the strict minimum.
Final Thoughts
Working out how many driveway ramp sections you need comes down to three things: an accurate measurement along the kerb, a clear decision on full-width versus tyre-track coverage, and an honest look at anything on the site, including bends, drains and posts that might split your run or call for a bend module.
Run the numbers, then double-check the parts of your driveway that don't fit a straight formula: the corner, the drain, the vehicle that scrapes worse than the others. For more on matching a ramp to your kerb shape, see the driveway kerb ramp buying guide and the guide to choosing a ramp for your kerb profile. If a low-clearance vehicle is the reason you're here, this guide on stopping a car scraping on a steep driveway is worth a read too.
If your driveway is straightforward, browse the driveway kerb ramp range and order to the count you've calculated. If there's anything uneven about the kerb, a bend to work around, or you're just not confident in the number, measure the site, take a few photos, and send them through to Rubbr with your vehicle details. It's a quicker fix before the order than after it.
Council requirements, permanent fixing approvals and any spill or drainage obligations depend on your local area, so check with your council if the ramp will sit near public land or you're planning to bolt anything down permanently.